So we started from Kolkata and landed up at the Guwahati airport on a cloudy morning in April. The sight of the clouds hovering over the green and hilly Guwahati town from our airplane's window was quite a pleasant one. We didn't stop for breakfast since the Airlines had provided for us generously.
The road ahead was a long one - almost an 8 hours journey that would take us to the Assam-Arunachal border town of Bhalukpong. We passed over the mighty Brahmaputra, sped through the intoxicatingly green rural Assam neighbourhoods and crossed an eerie forest to reach Bhalukpong after sunset.
Left with nothing much to see in the dark, we had our dinner early and went off to bed. The dawn came much earlier than anyone one of us thought it would. Sun rises at around 4 am in Arunachal! I was out of my cottage in an instant, not wanting to miss the sunrise. Along with a group of friends, which included an experienced trekker, I made my way to the native-style watch-tower. Perched up on the tower, all we could hear was the sweet gurgling of the Jiyabharli river and chirpings of unknown birds . Before us lay a serene river-side, bordered by green hills and dense forests. The sun rose after some waiting and when it did, the sights left us mesmerised. The crimson glow leaked from the clouds and poured first on the glassy river and then onto the surrounding hills. Our cams started clicking before this spectacle would vanish.
Our cottages at Bhalukpong were beautifully located on a flat, raised ground overlooking the gushing river and blue hills and surrounded by carefully manicured lawns and shady trees. It was difficult to say goodbye to Bhalukpong.
Our next stop was to be Bomdilla, the cloud-kissed hilly town of Arunachal.
Moss-green hills shrouded in layers of milky clouds is what we firt saw of Bomdilla! After settling my luggage at the hotel and a mug of smoking hot coffee, I was out. The small town lay on rolling hills almost always touched by frolicking clouds. So, one moment it would be bright and sunny and before you came to know, you would find the friend near you disappearing in the midst of clouds. The locals, specially the women, come accross as friendly and warm; a mother-daughter duo readily agreed to escort me and a friend to our hotel when we lost our way in the mist-covered lanes.
The Bomdilla monastery is a small climb up from the town. Beautiful setting, richly decorated interiors and the sight of groups of smiling light-footed lamas make the visit enjoyable. Having spent a day and half at Bomdilla, it was time to move on. This is the hardest part of a planned travel, you have to leave a place just when you felt like you've fallen in love with it.
All I knew about Tawang was that it housed the second largest Buddhist monastery in Asia, the largest being Rumtek in Sikkim. The journey to Tawang takes you through breathtaking scenery, ever-changing weather and a heavenly lake. Arunachal is as green as you can imagine. The lower slopes abound in lush vegetation. There's a great profusion bamboo and wild banana trees. The higher altitudes bring with them great varieties of rhododendrons (my favourite!)and endless rows of stately pines. You have to travel the Sela pass if you are going to Tawang. As our car was slowly approaching the highest point of the pass - the Sela Top, the scenery outside changed dramatically. The soft green hills gave way to awe-inspiring craggy black mountains. They were swept with snow and the strong winds that blew relentlessly at these altitudes carved out sharp edges in their bodies. The Sela lake is the star-shaped jewel on the Sela Pass' crown. Surrounded by craggy, naked peaks this star-shaped blue lake seems like a drop from paradise. As we gazed in awe, a mass of cloud came down hurrying from nowhere and descended on the lake casting a pall before our eyes. The weather goddess was always playing her pranks up here I thought! The lunar landscape of Sela was dotted with rhododendrons in full bloom - the profusion of reds,yellows, whites, pinks and purples stood out in magnificent contrast to the desolate surroundings. An unbelievable sight!
Chilly winds picked up great speeds and it was becoming difficult to stand in the open.
A drive down the Sela pass brought us to the doorway of Tawang. An ornate gate welcomed tourists here.
To be continued ...
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| Arunachal Trip Second Album |
